Wednesday, October 14, 2009

My Take on Dominica

Tip:  To avoid sounding uneducated, remember to call the country Dom-in-EEK-a, not Do-MIN-i-ka.


Worth a visit?  Absolutely, especially if you're a diver or eco-tourist.  You can't beat it if you love nature, photography or diving.  The down side is that it's currently impossible to get to or from in one day. You'll have to stay overnight in San Juan, Puerto Rico twice, going and coming.  Life can be rough but I'm sure you'll manage, as we did.

Would I live there?  Uh, no.  On a liveability scale of 1 to 5, I'd give it a 2.  I got bored in its sleepy capital city before the week ended.  But then, I grew up outside New York City and I didn't have my diving gear.


People: Dominicans are easy to understand because they speak clear English.  They have a British mentality because it was a British colony until 1978.  They are descended from escaped slaves and dark-skinned, but not once during our 10-day visit did they treat us differently because of our skin color.  It seems they don't have the same color consciousness we've encountered in the U.S.  They're very friendly and family oriented.  But because Dominica has few natural resources apart from its beauty, jobs are hard to come by and they struggle for every penny.

Country:  Stunning, absolutely stunning.  I've heard it said that Dominica is so untouched, it's the only island Columbus would still recognize.  That is probably the main reason two Pirates of the Caribbean movies were filmed there.  Its Atlantic side is lush and green, with dramatic cliffs and picturesque beaches.  Because mountains run down its middle (it's a volcanic island) the Atlantic side gets a lot more rain (and hurricanes) than the Caribbean side, hence the Carib indians were relegated there.  On the other hand, the Caribbean (western) side, where its capital Roseau lies, is hotter and drier, and its beaches are rocky, not sandy.

What I loved:  The owners of Calibishie Lodges who catered to my every whim.  Snorkeling in the bubbly water at Champagne Beach was like being in a glass of champagne.  Seeing fruit trees growing by the side of the road everywhere.  Swimming in water pure enough to bottle straight.   Seeing the map of all its awesome diving spots.  The plentiful waterfalls and hiking spots waiting to be explored.  The beautiful sunsets seen from my hotel's rooftop terrace.  Visiting the Carib territory and seeing a handmade dugout canoe drying by the side of the road.

What I didn't like: The poverty.  The pockmarked roads.  The city is roasting hot, even in October.  Most products and food come from elsewhere so prices are crazy-high. Apart from hotels, few restaurants are open in the evenings.  The Garraway Hotel, where we stayed, doesn't have a pool.

Thoughts: Dominica is a diamond in the rough.  It just needs some polish to show its potential.

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