Calibishie

If you saw Pirates of the Caribbean 2 or 3, you've seen Dominica.  It was the perfect location for filming these period pirate movies, and they were filmed near the town of Calibishie, our first destination.

We had decided to arrive a few days before the men's meetings so we could see a bit of the countryside, and so we spent our first weekend in the northeast corner in Calibishie Lodges.  My impression from the photos was that it was a tad rustic and had a small pool.  True, our rooms had no a/c, but surprisingly enough we found we didn't need it.  And truly, I prefer to float around in the pool and cool off, not swim laps, so it was fine, especially since it had lounge chairs for Dan's sunning, and a spot of shade for me to nap in.

Not that we had much time to chill out ... we were going to be there for such a short time that we spent a lot of it exploring the area.  Chris, the proprietor of the hotel, knew just where to go.  He told us that some of the lead actors had stayed in that hotel

We drove down the coast to see the Carib Indian territory and when our stomachs started complaining found a little hole-in-the-wall restaurant along the road to eat at ... they were really surprised to see white Americans show up and just eat what they had on the menu.  Their menu offered a choice of either chicken and rice or fish and boiled potatoes.  As usual Dan ordered one and I ordered the other, so we each could try two different dishes.  They were good, but not distinctive enough to ask for the recipes.

Calibishie Lodges only has a few rooms, and Chris really made us feel special.  Every morning we had fresh fruit juice - carambola was my favorite - and our choice of European, American or local-style breakfasts. If we wanted to eat dinner on site, we had but to tell them and the cook would be waiting for us when we returned in the evening.  There was nothing we could ask for that would not be provided if it was in their power.

Our son Chris wanted to see one of the locations used for filming the Pirates movies so Chris sent us on our way with vague directions that consisted of phrases such as, "Turn when you get to the post at the top of such-and-such hill." We were shocked when we found the turnoff and after driving along rutted tracks -- it would be too kind to call it a road -- found the black sand beach that Johnny Depp had run down in one of the Pirates movies.  Chris had something to remember and brag about, and we got some wonderful shots.  It was absolutely beautiful.

If you stay in Dominica you really should take a break from diving and spend a few days at Calibishie Lodges. The hotel's won the island's Hotel of the Year award for a reason.  It's the perfect base to explore the country's Atlantic coast and visit the Carib Indian territory, and you can't honestly say you've seen the country until you've been here.

My Take on Dominica

Tip:  To avoid sounding uneducated, remember to call the country Dom-in-EEK-a, not Do-MIN-i-ka.


Worth a visit?  Absolutely, especially if you're a diver or eco-tourist.  You can't beat it if you love nature, photography or diving.  The down side is that it's currently impossible to get to or from in one day. You'll have to stay overnight in San Juan, Puerto Rico twice, going and coming.  Life can be rough but I'm sure you'll manage, as we did.

Would I live there?  Uh, no.  On a liveability scale of 1 to 5, I'd give it a 2.  I got bored in its sleepy capital city before the week ended.  But then, I grew up outside New York City and I didn't have my diving gear.


People: Dominicans are easy to understand because they speak clear English.  They have a British mentality because it was a British colony until 1978.  They are descended from escaped slaves and dark-skinned, but not once during our 10-day visit did they treat us differently because of our skin color.  It seems they don't have the same color consciousness we've encountered in the U.S.  They're very friendly and family oriented.  But because Dominica has few natural resources apart from its beauty, jobs are hard to come by and they struggle for every penny.

Country:  Stunning, absolutely stunning.  I've heard it said that Dominica is so untouched, it's the only island Columbus would still recognize.  That is probably the main reason two Pirates of the Caribbean movies were filmed there.  Its Atlantic side is lush and green, with dramatic cliffs and picturesque beaches.  Because mountains run down its middle (it's a volcanic island) the Atlantic side gets a lot more rain (and hurricanes) than the Caribbean side, hence the Carib indians were relegated there.  On the other hand, the Caribbean (western) side, where its capital Roseau lies, is hotter and drier, and its beaches are rocky, not sandy.

What I loved:  The owners of Calibishie Lodges who catered to my every whim.  Snorkeling in the bubbly water at Champagne Beach was like being in a glass of champagne.  Seeing fruit trees growing by the side of the road everywhere.  Swimming in water pure enough to bottle straight.   Seeing the map of all its awesome diving spots.  The plentiful waterfalls and hiking spots waiting to be explored.  The beautiful sunsets seen from my hotel's rooftop terrace.  Visiting the Carib territory and seeing a handmade dugout canoe drying by the side of the road.

What I didn't like: The poverty.  The pockmarked roads.  The city is roasting hot, even in October.  Most products and food come from elsewhere so prices are crazy-high. Apart from hotels, few restaurants are open in the evenings.  The Garraway Hotel, where we stayed, doesn't have a pool.

Thoughts: Dominica is a diamond in the rough.  It just needs some polish to show its potential.

Roseau

Although it's Dominica's capital and its largest city, Roseau is only a few blocks wide and deep so it's easy to learn the way around. Bordered on one side by the Caribbean and on the other by mountains, it's a picturesque town so obviously different from America that it's sometimes hard to remember we're on the same continent.

Due to the heat many residents spend their days outside in the shade, chatting to each other or selling their wares to passersby. Though few of the shops I visited were air conditioned, most had fans, and standing near them made the temperature quite manageable.

With husbands in meetings almost every day, my friend Vonce and I had to entertain ourselves (and Joseph). We spent a lot of time wandering about the streets and exploring the shops. Every morning we met for breakfast and took Joseph for a walk. A few blocks from our hotel was a small stand where a man made yummy smoothies from fresh fruit for EC$5 (about $2.80). She and I often bought one and took it on our walks. And shopping and walking were about all that we could do, for the city had only one small museum and no beaches nearby.

By the time lunchtime rolled around we were sweating and ready to return to the air-conditioned comfort of our rooms. It was unfortunate that the Garraway hotel lacked a pool; we really would have appreciated it. Joseph needed a nap after lunch so I spent the afternoons alone wandering the streets with my camera (and sometimes another smoothie). Heaven.

Roseau is small enough that most of it can be seen in a day or two, so by the end of the week our daily routine got really old. We were thrilled when Friday rolled around and the men didn't have meetings; it gave us all a chance to show them around the city and visit the Botanical Gardens with them. Dan and I took lots of photos there.

Dominicans are very family-oriented. For that reason very few sho  ps (or restaurants!) in Roseau are open in the evening. Sundays are particularly difficult and you most likely will have to eat in your hotel restaurant. Dan and I did manage to find a local pizza parlor (green beans are good on pizza!) and ate at a Chinese restaurant twice. I actually enjoyed eating there even though I'm not a fan of Chinese food; the food there tasted nothing like the Chinese we are used to in the States. (Perhaps the owners were from a different part of China?) Whatever. Dan and I ate at KFC on Friday night and discovered they don't have combo meals; everything is a la carte.

Roseau comes alive whenever a cruise ship comes in. Our hotel windows overlooked where the ships dock so we had a chance to watch everyone set up in preparation for the tourists. Vonce and I didn't enjoy our walks as much on those days because we were constantly being mistaken for tourists. It seemed like every guide on the bayfront offered us a tour and that shopkeepers (who normally let us shop in peace) became competitive to get our dollars.

Still, the cruise industry is vital to Dominica's wellbeing. If it doesn't get income from tourism, Dominica may someday be forced to find its income elsewhere, perhaps building the Chavez refinery it has been resisting.  It would be a shame if this island had to sacrifice its greatest resource - its natural beauty - in order to survive.

Sticker Shock

It could be due to an exhorbitant cost of shipping or the tax on imports, but whatever the reason, prices for imported grocery items here are ridiculously high. For instance, a small package of disposable diapers is almost $28.00, a bottle of grape juice runs $12.09, a large Folgers costs $22.19. One ribeye steak I saw was $10, and a pound of pasta sells for about $2.

On the other hand, fruit grows abundantly on trees everywhere. We saw quite a few people walking along the road munching on the ripe, juicy guavas that were in season.  Sugar and vanilla extract are far cheaper in Dominica than in the US, as is the rum ($2.64/quart).  Maybe it's best to embrace island life and live as Dominicans do, enjoying locally produced food instead of trying to eat like an American.

Dominica

"Dominica?  Where the heck is that?" I asked when Dan first told me he had to go there on business.  I'd heard of the Dominican Republic, but it was hard to fathom that two countries could have such similar names.

As it turns out, Dominica is a tiny Caribbean island between Guadeloupe and Martinique.  It's pronounced Dom-in-EEK-a.  And we would be there with Dan's business partner Richard and his wife and son.

Most people wouldn't choose Dominica as a destination.  First off, you can't get there in one day, you have to fly to Puerto Rico and then fly to Dominica the next afternoon.   Plus, there are few sandy beaches and therefore no resorts on the entire island.  (Can you say untouched?)  Its prime resource is its pristine beauty so it's a mecca for divers and eco-tourists.

As we descended between the forested mountains Richard said it reminded him of flying into 'Nam.  But there was no gunfire to greet us, just a small airport and an office where we picked up a rental car.  We took off for our first destination: Calibishe, on the northeast coast.  The guys might have business meetings every day next week, but this weekend we all planned to relax and enjoy ourselves in this country.